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Light & Shade Cattleyas need abundant, though not intense, light in order to grow and flower well. About 2,000-3,000 footcandles is satisfactory. And as with many orchids, the early morning sun is very important. An east window, or a south window with light shading such as a sheer curtain from the middle of February to the end of October, is very satisfactory. Temperature Cattleyas thrive with a day temperature range from 70°-80°F. At night there should be at least a 10° drop (to 60°-64°F). This lower night temperature will help initiate flower buds and will promote stronger growth. Certain cattleyas are more sensitive to photo periodism and, in order to rebloom, require total darkness 10 hours each night. Keeping the plants near a window will help. Cattleyas can be grown outside from June to August in a filtered light. Direct sun will burn the leaves. Humidity Cattleyas like a humidity of between 45% and 60%. This may be attained by the use of a humidifier, or by filling a saucer with crushed rock and placing it under the plants. Then, when you water, the runoff will fill the saucer, releasing humidity into the air via the crushed rock. However, make sure that the pot is elevated above the water level in the saucer. Watering You should water Cattleyas when the potting mix feels dry almost to the bottom of the pot. This situation generally occurs every week or so from the previous watering, depending on pot size and air flow. If in doubt, don’t water. Wait another day or two. Small plants can dry out quicker than large ones. Plants should never stand in water. When watering from overhead, avoid water in bud sheath. Feeding Prior to fertilizing, water plant with clear tepid water. Dyna-Gro is the ideal brand to use as it provides all of the macro nutrients and all essential trace minerals plants need be healthy, grow and flower. Mix 1/tsp. of Dyna-Gro Grow with one gallon of water and use with every watering. To assist blooming, switch to the nitrogen/high phosphorus Dyna-Gro Bloom formula or Mag-Pro supplement for the winter and/or pre-bloom periods. Potting We recommend a mix of large coconut chips, spongerock and large charcoal. In general, repotting should be done every year in the spring. Repotting becomes necessary when the plant has outgrown its pot and the new growth reaches out over the edge, or when the potting medium has broken down. Pick a pot that is large enough to accommodate each year’s growth of new pseudobulbs. Start by gently, but firmly, pulling the plant out of its old pot. Pry out from between the roots as much of the potting material as you can. Trim off any dead roots or dead pseudobulbs, and position the plant with its oldest pseudobulbs to one of the new pot. Then, spreading the plant roots out, fill in the space with the potting medium, pressing firmly but gently down with each handful. Build up the compost until the plant rests with its rhizome on the surface, about a half inch below the rim of pot. Newly potted plants have a tendency to wobble, but a ring is available that clips on to the pot and supports the plant. Don’t water the plant for 10 days to encourage new root growth. Don’t fertilize until new roots appear. Dividing To divide a plant, simply pull it out of the pot and cut through the rhizome between the pseudobulbs leaving three to four bulbs per division. Apply powdered sulphur to each cut to prevent rot. If possible, try to untangle some of the roots for each division. It is likely that you will have to cut some of the roots in order to divide the plant. Keep dry for the first 2 weeks after repotting. |